Choose your option
Choose your option
Why Choose ProWax Polish™ (Polymer-Based) over Acrylic Wax
| Feature / Benefit | ProWax Polish™ (Polymer‑Based) | Competitor Acrylic Floor Wax |
|---|---|---|
| Durability & Abrasion | ★★★★★ Tough—Stands Up Under Heavy Traffic | ★★★☆☆ Softer—Wears Faster In Busy Areas |
| Chemical & Stain | ★★★★★ Excellent Vs. Oils & Solvents | ★★☆☆☆ Fair—May Discolor Under Harsh Cleaners |
| Gloss & Sheen Options | Satin Or High Gloss | Low–Medium Sheen Only |
| Maintenance Interval | 6–12 Months Between Coats | 3–6 Months In Similar Conditions |
| Recoat Ease | Light Clean + Recoat—No Stripping | Often Requires Full Strip & Prep |
| Moisture Blocking | Seals Pores For Easy Cleaning | More Breathable—May Trap Moisture |
| UV & Yellowing | Good UV Stability; Minimal Yellowing | Excellent UV Stability; Softer Film |
| Application | Spray Or Mop‑On; No Buffing Needed | Spray, Roller, Mop‑On |

Which Finish Is Right for You?
Satin ProWax Polish™
- Subtle, low‑sheen finish that hides light scuffs and footprints.
- Ideal for basements and residential floors.
High Gloss ProWax Polish™
- Deep, reflective “wet‑look” shine.
- Perfect for showrooms, commercial lobbies, or anywhere you want dramatic sparkle.
Frequently Ask Questions
How long before I can move furniture on it?
How long before I can move furniture on it?
Light foot traffic: 2 hours
Move furniture: 24 hours
Can I buff it?
Can I buff it?
Buffing isn’t necessary—just apply two thin coats with a microfiber mop for a durable finish. If you want a mirror‑like, extra‑high gloss, first build up at least four coats, then buff the final coat.
High‑Traffic or Commercial?
High‑Traffic or Commercial?
ChooseHigh Glossfor ultimate toughness and spill resistance.
How do I touch up spots?
How do I touch up spots?
Clean, then recoat that area—no full strip required.
Residential or Décor‑Focused?
Residential or Décor‑Focused?
Satinadds just enough sheen without highlighting every scratch.
Longer Between Coats
Longer Between Coats
- Preparation: Use a shop vacuum or a broom to remove all dirt and debris from the concrete surface.
- Application: Pour Mastic Remover undiluted directly on the concrete surface. Applying too much mastic remover does not increase removal time but will contribute to impeding the complete residue removal. Where there are wide cracks or seals, fill with a commercial absorbent like diatomaceous clay, sawdust, or synthetic absorbent, before pouring the mastic remover on the surface.
- Waiting Period: Wait until the glue softens (generally 45 – 60 minutes). For best results, cover areas with a plastic sheet or tarp to reduce evaporation. Cover all outdoor applications with plastic.
- Removal: Use a long-handled scraper or squeegee to remove softened carpet glue and excess product.
- Scrubbing: Brush off the remaining residue from the concrete with a concrete degreaser and water solution.
- Rinsing: Wash until all cleanser residues have been removed.
For tougher or more complex oil removal issues that may require additional guidance and advanced techniques, consider visiting ourRemoving Oil Stains From Concrete: A Comprehensive Guidefor specialized advice and solutions.