Direct Colors DIY Home Improvement · Episode 7
Listen to this episode
Metallic epoxy is the most artistic finish in decorative concrete and the least forgiving of hesitation — once it is down you have about fifteen minutes before it starts to set, and touching it after that makes it worse. Justin Richardson on mixing the metallic into the resin before the hardener, the three tools that actually matter, and why an unlevel top ruins the coat.
5 min 35 sec · Download MP3 (7.7 MB)
For this job you need: ColorWave® · AcquaTint™ PRO · HydroCryl™ or AcquaSeal™
Not sure which is right for your slab? Send us the details — the free project consultation is a person, not a form letter.
The written guide on this topic, with photographs: Metallic Epoxy Countertops.
Editor’s note. This episode was recorded some years ago. The transcript below has been corrected where the facts have changed; nothing about the technique has been altered.
- ⚠ Direct Colors no longer sells the 100% Epoxy Countertop Sealer or the metallic color packs, so the branded names have been dropped. This episode is published for its technique, which transfers to any two-part epoxy system — see “What to use today” below for what we can supply.
- The base coat options mentioned are still current: EasyTint™ or EverStain™ under the topcoat.
- ⚠ Safety, added by us and not said on air. Denatured alcohol, used here to make the metallic move, is highly flammable. Work with strong ventilation, keep it away from any ignition source, and never combine it with a heat gun or torch. Two-part epoxies also warrant gloves, eye protection and ventilation — read the manufacturer’s safety data sheet for whatever system you use.
- The recovered transcript ends after Justin’s closing remark, without the usual sign-off. Nothing has been trimmed by us.
- Housekeeping, applied to every episode in this archive. The spoken sign-off has been rewritten to point here rather than at the old directcolors.com/listen address. The RSS-feed line, the social-media list and any pointers to retired photo-gallery, blog or video pages have been dropped, along with pointers to pages that have since been retired or superseded by the links under What’s Next — in some episodes that removes a whole sentence or a short exchange. Every speaker says “design consultation”; the service is now called the free project consultation, and we have used the current name throughout rather than send you to a page that no longer exists. Run-on speaker turns, duplicated intro lines and obvious transcription slips have been repaired without changing meaning. Nothing bearing on technique, safety or product choice has been altered; those changes are itemized above.
Still accurate for any two-part epoxy: prep to 200 grit, tint the metallic into the resin (part A) before adding the hardener (part B) and let it stand about 5 minutes, then re-stir. A 10 mil notched squeegee, a mini roller and a spiked roller are the tools. Epoxy is not UV stable, so indoors only. Level matters — a slope drifts the coat. And stop touching it after about 15 minutes.
What to use for a countertop finish today
We are being straight with you: Direct Colors no longer makes an epoxy, and no longer sells metallic pigment packs, and nothing in the current range reproduces the metallic shimmer effect. What we can do is the color and the protection.
- Color on a countertop
- ColorWave® Stain, AcquaTint™ PRO or Vibrance™ Dye.
- A reactive, variegated look
- EverStain™, or DecoGel™ where you want the color to stay exactly where you put it.
- Maximum chemical resistance
- HydroCryl™ — built to resist household chemicals, cleaners and sanitizers.
- Low odor, occupied home
- AcquaSeal™.
- Marbled or veined effect without epoxy
- Entirely achievable with acid stain — see Ken Lazenby’s episode and the veining technique guide.
For a food-contact surface, send the details through the free project consultation before buying — we would rather confirm the right product than have you guess.
Full transcript
Shawna Turner: You are listening to podcast Episode 7: Applying Metallic Epoxy Countertop Sealer. I’m Shawna Turner and today we’re talking with Justin Richardson about applying metallic epoxy countertop sealer. If this is your first time listening, then thanks for coming. There are so many color and technique possibilities with metallics that we wanted to discuss the technical details of the product, to help our customers better understand how to use metallic epoxy for their own countertops. Let’s get started.
ST: Are there any differences in surface preparation between an epoxy and a metallic epoxy?
Justin Richardson: There really is no difference for surface prep. The bonding properties of epoxy are the same whether you use clear epoxy or with metallic pigments added to it. Prep your surface to 200 grit level, add your color base coat — whether that is tinted sealer, acid stain or similar. Once that process is complete you’re ready for the metallic epoxy.
ST: How do you mix the metallics into the epoxy? How much do you use?
JR: The epoxy countertop sealer is a two component sealer — the resin is part A and the hardener is part B. First you will add the metallic to the resin and stir it in with a paint stir stick. Once it’s mixed, let it stand for 5 minutes or so. Then stir once again prior to adding the part B hardener. The metallic color packs are figured for an average load based on the epoxy mini kits. Because the metallic is the artistic part of this application, you can put in more or less than one color pack if you want to amp up or calm down the metallic results. If you want a really heavy metallic effect you can buy a second color pack to add to one epoxy mini kit. It is important to know metallic designs are very artistic in nature and are not an exact science.
ST: Do you use different tools for application? How do you create that metallic look?
JR: There are some tools that make your application process go smoothly. A 10 mil notched squeegee will help distribute a good even coat of metallic epoxy. A mini roller to use for a finish roll after the epoxy is spread over the surface with the notched squeegee. And a 4 inch spiked roller is a great tool to pop any bubbles that may sometimes appear in the sealer during and shortly after application.
ST: Any application tips you would offer our DIY listeners about their own countertop projects?
JR: There are a few things to be careful of. Most epoxies are not UV stable and will tend to discolor over time with regular exposure to direct sunlight, so be sure you are planning on indoor projects with this product. Make sure your surface is level — an unlevel surface will cause the epoxy to drift toward the low side, ultimately leaving an uneven coat. Always be mindful of the time you’re taking to get the material down. All two component sealers have a limited amount of time before the sealer begins to set. Avoid the temptation to continue touching up or altering the sealer once it’s been down for 15 minutes or so — check the manufacturer’s recommended work time.
JR: There are some tricks you can do to make the metallic move for unique effects, such as very lightly misting denatured alcohol on the surface. If you are thinking of doing something like this, you may want to consider creating test pieces before applying to your countertop. Like many artistic applications, there is a measure of unpredictability, so relax and have fun with it.
ST: What is it you like best about the metallic epoxy?
JR: My favorite thing about metallic epoxy, aside from the unique decorative shimmer it provides, would be the versatility. This product lends itself beautifully to nearly all decorative themes, from rustic to modern.
What’s Next
- The written guide → Metallic Epoxy Countertops
- Marbling without epoxy → Concrete Veining Technique · Ken Lazenby’s episode
- Countertops start to finish → DIY Concrete Countertops · Refinish an Old Countertop
- Looking after the finish → Care and Maintenance for Countertop Sealers
- Shop → ColorWave® · AcquaTint™ PRO · HydroCryl™ or AcquaSeal™
