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Acid Stain

Podcast: Acid Staining Floors During Construction

Direct Colors DIY Home Improvement · Episode 24

Listen to this episode

On a new build, most of what decides whether a floor stains well is settled before you ever open a bottle — the mix design, the trowel finish, and the order of trades. Shawna Turner on what your general contractor needs to know in advance, the one window in the build when you should stain, and why the first coat of sealer should be the only one for now.

5 min 06 sec · Download MP3 (7.0 MB)

For this job you need: EverStain™ · EasySeal™ · ProWax Polish™

Not sure which is right for your slab? Send us the details — the free project consultation is a person, not a form letter.

The written guide on this topic, with photographs: How to Apply Concrete Acid Stain.

Editor’s note. This episode was recorded some years ago. The transcript below has been corrected where the facts have changed; nothing about the technique has been altered.

  • “Sprayable Satin Finish Sealer” is now EasySeal™ Satin, and “AC1315 High Gloss” is now EasySeal™ Gloss — the same solvent-based acrylic in two finishes. The concrete wax and floor polish is ProWax Polish™, and the organic degreaser is ProClean Degreaser™.
  • The claim that the solvent sealer “can be sprayed on floors freezing and above” is left as spoken but has not been re-verified against the current formulation. Follow the instructions supplied with the product you buy.
  • The sign-off’s RSS-feed line and social links have been dropped — the list included Google+, which shut down in 2019, and Twitter, now X.
  • The series is no longer in production, so the closing reference to a twice-monthly schedule reads in the past tense.
  • Housekeeping, applied to every episode in this archive. The spoken sign-off has been rewritten to point here rather than at the old directcolors.com/listen address. The RSS-feed line, the social-media list and any pointers to retired photo-gallery, blog or video pages have been dropped, along with pointers to pages that have since been retired or superseded by the links under What’s Next — in some episodes that removes a whole sentence or a short exchange. Every speaker says “design consultation”; the service is now called the free project consultation, and we have used the current name throughout rather than send you to a page that no longer exists. Run-on speaker turns, duplicated intro lines and obvious transcription slips have been repaired without changing meaning. Nothing bearing on technique, safety or product choice has been altered; those changes are itemized above.

Still accurate, and the most valuable part of this episode: the mix guidance (no more than 10% fly ash, rich in cement, lightly troweled if at all), the 30-day cure, the drywall timing, and the warning never to tape cardboard to a sealed floor.

What you need for this job

The timing advice is the valuable part here. When you are ready to buy, this is the sequence.

Stain once the slab has cured
EverStain™ Acid Stain
Profile a machine-troweled slab first
CitrusEtch™
Seal, then protect the finish
EasySeal™ then ProWax Polish™

Building now? Send your pour date and the schedule through the free project consultation so the staining lands in the right window.

Full transcript

Tommy Carter: You’re listening to podcast episode number 24. If this is your first time listening, then thanks for coming. I’m Tommy Carter, and today we’re talking about acid staining floors during construction. As acid stained floors have become more popular, homeowners need to know when to acid stain and what to do to protect the finish throughout the construction process. Shawna Turner, General Manager with Direct Colors, is here to give us the scoop on new construction staining projects. Welcome, Shawna.

Shawna Turner: Thank you very much, Tommy.

TC: What’s the first thing to keep in mind when acid staining floors in a new construction home?

ST: Probably the first thing is to make sure your general contractor knows and understands that you plan to acid stain the floors. If he or she knows in advance, they can properly direct the ready-mix company pouring and finishing the concrete, as well as other building contractors, to act accordingly.

TC: What role does the pouring and finishing of the concrete play in successfully acid staining?

ST: If you plan to acid stain concrete, the mix should contain no more than 10% fly ash and should only be lightly machine troweled, if at all. The concrete should be rich in cement content and the pores open for the stain to readily absorb and react. As long as the GC knows in advance, these requests should not be difficult or costly to implement.

TC: When should a homeowner plan to acid stain their concrete during construction?

ST: The concrete should be allowed to cure for 30 days for best staining results. If at all possible, the concrete should be stained after the drywall has been hung but BEFORE it has been mudded in. The reason this is so important is that drywall mud is a very challenging contaminant to remove from concrete after the fact. Homeowners wishing to acid stain their floors are then forced to spend a lot of time and money cleaning that could have been entirely avoided.

ST: Spray insulation is also a problem. Spray insulation should be installed AFTER the floors have been covered with overlapping cardboard. The chemicals interfere with the staining and sealing process and are notoriously difficult to remove.

TC: Just to be clear, could you give us the step by step process from acid staining to waxing?

ST: Sure, that’s a good idea. Once the drywall has been hung, clean the floors thoroughly using a medium to heavy duty organic degreaser and water solution. All debris — particularly chalk lines, paint, oil stains, dirt and the like — has to be off the surface and out of the pores before you begin. Sanding may be necessary for stubborn debris and staining. When the floors are clean and dry, apply the stain, neutralize and clean according to the instructions. Leave the floor to dry. At this point, you really only want to apply one coat of sealer. I recommend EasySeal™ Satin, especially if you’re working in the winter months. It does have a strong odor during application, but can be sprayed on floors freezing and above.

TC: Why just one coat of sealer at this stage?

ST: Even when you cover the floors with overlapping cardboard, damage can still be done during construction. Once the work is complete and the floor cleaned, another coat of sealer can be applied to repair any existing damage and make the floor look brand new again. EasySeal™ in satin or gloss is solvent-based and has the ability to re-emulsify the acrylic for a smooth final coat.

TC: So what are the final steps after applying the sealer?

ST: After the sealer has been successfully applied, allow the concrete to dry for at least 10 hours before covering with overlapping cardboard. DO NOT TAPE THE CARDBOARD TO THE FLOOR. Tape will bond with the sealer and ruin the finish. Keep the floor covered until construction is complete and the baseboards are ready for placement. At this point you’re ready to remove the cardboard, clean the floor and apply your final coat of concrete sealer. Allow for 24–48 hours ventilation and dry time before applying the concrete wax and floor polish according to the instructions. Next step: enjoy your floors!

TC: Thank you, Shawna, for that detailed information about acid staining floors during construction. I know it’s a common planning question with our DIY customers. If you have questions, call one of our expert technicians at 877-255-2656 and we’ll help you select the best products and technique for your needs. If you prefer email, send in a free online project consultation and we’ll get back to you within 24–48 hours. Direct Colors DIY Home Improvement podcasts were produced twice monthly for your enjoyment, and the show notes live here in the Direct Colors listening archive. I’m Tommy Carter, and thank you for joining us!

What’s Next

  1. The full staining method → How to Apply Concrete Acid Stain
  2. Getting the slab poured right → Pouring Colored Concrete Slabs
  3. Preparing the surface → Concrete Surface Preparation
  4. Looking after the finished floor → Care & Maintenance of Acid Stained Floors
  5. Shop → EverStain™ · EasySeal™ · ProWax Polish™
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Before You Checkout

EasyTint™ and OxiGrip™ are not compatible when used together directly. For slip resistance, use EasyTint™ as the color layer and apply OxiGrip™ only with a clear solvent based sealer as the topcoat.

Before You Checkout

AcquaTint™ and OxiGrip™ are not compatible when used together directly. If you need added slip resistance, apply AcquaTint™ as your color layer first, then use OxiGrip™ in a clear topcoat with AcquaSeal™ or HydroCryl™.