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Acid Stain

Podcast: Acid Staining Side-by-Side Slabs Poured at Different Times

Direct Colors DIY Home Improvement · Episode 27

Listen to this episode

An added-on patio or a patched floor will not take acid stain evenly, because the reaction depends on minerals that vary batch to batch and erode with weather. The fix is a sequence, not a product: stain the older slab first and give it up to ten hours, then bring the newer slab up to meet it — checking the match wet, with a spray bottle, never dry.

6 min 19 sec · Download MP3 (8.7 MB)

For this job you need: EverStain™ · CitrusEtch™ · Antiquing™

Not sure which is right for your slab? Send us the details — the free project consultation is a person, not a form letter.

The written guide on this topic, with photographs: Concrete Acid Stain Activation Times.

Editor’s note. This episode was recorded some years ago. The transcript below has been corrected where the facts have changed; nothing about the technique has been altered.

  • “Hard Troweled Floor Prep” is now CitrusEtch™, “DCI Concrete Dye” is now Vibrance™, and “Liquid Colored Antique Concrete Stain” is now Antiquing™.
  • One transcription slip fixed: “I’m sure this will useful information” reads as “will be useful information”.
  • This episode gives no phone number on air, so none has been added. Reach a technician at 877-255-2656 or through the free project consultation.
  • Housekeeping, applied to every episode in this archive. The spoken sign-off has been rewritten to point here rather than at the old directcolors.com/listen address. The RSS-feed line, the social-media list and any pointers to retired photo-gallery, blog or video pages have been dropped, along with pointers to pages that have since been retired or superseded by the links under What’s Next — in some episodes that removes a whole sentence or a short exchange. Every speaker says “design consultation”; the service is now called the free project consultation, and we have used the current name throughout rather than send you to a page that no longer exists. Run-on speaker turns, duplicated intro lines and obvious transcription slips have been repaired without changing meaning. Nothing bearing on technique, safety or product choice has been altered; those changes are itemized above.

Still accurate in full — this is a sequencing and timing episode, and none of it depends on a product name. The core figures stand: up to 10 hours on the older slab, 2–3 hours on the newer one, then extend in one-hour steps until the wet colors match.

What you need for this job

Two slabs poured at different times will never react identically. These are the tools for closing the gap.

Even out how the slabs take color
CitrusEtch™ on both, to the same profile
The stain
EverStain™ Acid Stain — test both slabs with the EverStain™ Trial System before committing
Blend the difference that remains
Antiquing™ Stamped Concrete Stain or DecoGel™, which stays where you put it

This is the most common disappointment we hear about. Send photographs of both slabs through the free project consultation first.

Full transcript

Tommy Carter: You’re listening to podcast Episode 27: How to Successfully Acid Stain Side by Side Concrete Slabs Poured at Different Times. If this is your first time listening, then thanks for listening. I’m Tommy Carter, Sales Manager and Technician with Direct Colors. It may sound odd that concrete poured at different times would not acid stain the same, but if you’ve added on to your patio, interior floors or driveway, this podcast is worth the time spent listening. Here to tell you more about why, and how to get the best results from your next DIY project, is Shawna Turner, General Manager with Direct Colors. Welcome to the podcast, Shawna.

Shawna Turner: Thank you.

TC: Let’s get started. So why does it matter if side by side concrete slabs are poured at different times, if you’re planning to acid stain?

ST: Acid stain is a chemically-reactive stain, not just a topical colorant. The stain relies on the minerals available in the concrete surface to react properly and develop the variable, rich color acid stain is known for. Concrete is not mixed exactly the same way every time, and the mineral content can vary substantially from one batch to another. Concrete finishing, especially if a machine trowel is involved, can alter acid staining results dramatically from one floor section to another as well. Keep in mind that exposure to the elements can impact color development on older outdoor concrete slabs. In addition, concrete patches will also stain differently from the surrounding concrete and should be given special consideration before beginning a project.

TC: For sure! What recommendations would you make for indoor floors poured separately, or patched due to plumbing problems or for carpet tack holes, for example?

ST: For indoor floors, making sure the profile is the same across the slab is important. Whether you choose to mechanically profile the floor using a sander, or chemically profile with CitrusEtch™, do the same thing everywhere. I recommend reading over page one of our How to Acid Stain Concrete guide to determine what process will yield the best results for your concrete before beginning.

ST: As for concrete patches, they can be tricky, particularly if they are in a conspicuous area of the floor. Patches should be sanded flush with the floor before staining. For best results, I would stain and neutralize the rest of the floor first, leaving the patch to be stained afterwards, so it can be more easily color matched by carefully controlling the stain’s activation time. Once the patch achieves the same color as the floor, neutralize the stain and move on to the cleaning step. Spray both the patch and the floor with water from a handheld spray bottle to determine when the matching color has been achieved, prior to neutralizing. Keep in mind that we offer topical stains, such as Vibrance™ and Antiquing™, to touch up or further accent any difficult areas — so don’t worry, there’s more than one path to a beautiful floor.

TC: That’s good news. What about outdoor concrete? Many homes have patio and driveway slabs poured at different times.

ST: If you want the concrete to be as close to the same color as possible, I suggest applying the stain to the older slab first and leaving it to process for up to 10 hours for maximum color development. The longer concrete is exposed to the elements, the more surface mineral erosion occurs. For this reason, older concrete needs more processing time to achieve optimal color results than a newer slab.

ST: After the processing time is complete, neutralize the concrete and rinse, so you can get a good look at the color. At this point, apply the stain to the newer slab and leave to process for 2–3 hours. Using a spray bottle of water, dampen a small area of the old and new concrete and compare. If it looks like a good match when wet, great — neutralize and clean the entire slab in preparation for sealing. If not, let the new concrete process for another hour and repeat the test until a color match is achieved. Remember to look at the concrete only when it’s wet, not dry. Dry, acid stained concrete does very little to reveal the final color as it will appear when sealed.

TC: What happens if a color match can’t be achieved with the acid stain? What else can be done?

ST: As I mentioned before, we have several topical stain options for indoor and outdoor use. I most frequently recommend Antiquing™ for patios, driveways and other outdoor concrete. It can be used as a stand-alone concrete stain, and often is, or as an accent for acid stained concrete. If a satisfactory color match isn’t achievable, it can be applied to blend the colors and create a more uniform final result. Customers often use this to color match on existing stained outdoor slabs where repairs have been made. It’s really an excellent, easy to use product that can renew color, fix problem areas and save customers a great deal of money by avoiding unnecessary tear-outs and refinishing.

TC: That’s great to hear. Everyone likes to save time and money on home improvement. Thanks, Shawna, for the helpful tips on how to get the best results when acid staining interior floors and outdoor concrete. I’m sure this will be useful information for many of our customers. DIY Home Improvement podcasts were produced twice monthly for your enjoyment, and the show notes live here in the Direct Colors listening archive. I’m Tommy Carter, and thanks again for joining us!

What’s Next

  1. The written guide → Concrete Acid Stain Activation Times
  2. The full method → How to Apply Acid Stain · How to Neutralize Acid Stain
  3. Patching first → Patch Up Carpet Tack Holes
  4. If it still will not match → Fixing Acid Stain Problems · Antiquing™
  5. Shop → EverStain™ · CitrusEtch™ · Antiquing™
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Before You Checkout

EasyTint™ and OxiGrip™ are not compatible when used together directly. For slip resistance, use EasyTint™ as the color layer and apply OxiGrip™ only with a clear solvent based sealer as the topcoat.

Before You Checkout

AcquaTint™ and OxiGrip™ are not compatible when used together directly. If you need added slip resistance, apply AcquaTint™ as your color layer first, then use OxiGrip™ in a clear topcoat with AcquaSeal™ or HydroCryl™.