Integral color is pigment mixed into concrete while it is still wet, so the color goes all the way through rather than sitting on the surface. That is the whole argument for it: chip a stained slab and you see gray underneath; chip an integrally colored one and the color is identical inside. It is a synthetic or natural iron oxide powder that behaves like a dye for cement — you add it to the dry mix and let the mixing do the work.
A master bathroom vanity cast in concrete colored with Smokestack pigment.
A pigment sampler before a truck arrives is the cheapest insurance there is
Note on results: every project here is a real Direct Colors customer. Ready-mix varies in cement and lime content between brands, so the same pigment load can land differently — always sample against your actual mix before a full pour.
Five things to settle before you start
1 · Pick the brand first
Avoid ready-mix with an unidentifiable brand or aggregate source — an unknown aggregate can throw the color
2 · No calcium chloride
Verify the mix is compatible with integral pigment. Calcium chloride must not be in it at all
3 · Control the water
Mix and hydrate identically batch to batch. Small changes in water content give off-color results — this is the most common cause of a patchy slab
4 · Sample before you pour
Test the color against your actual mix before committing the whole slab
5 · Protect the cure
Keep other construction activity off the slab while it cures
One more, for pre-bagged products: ready-mix, mortar, grout and plaster all contain different amounts of Portland cement, and some have hydrated lime added. Since only the cement and lime take color, you need the exact weight of each before you can calculate pigment. Most packaging states it.
The pigment calculator — enter your base color, target color and cement weight.
A master bathroom vanity, start to finish
The Bottelberghes cast their own vanity in Smokestack — two days and six hours of work. The numbers below came straight out of the calculator, which is the part worth copying.
Size
1.5 in. deep × 26 in. wide × 72 in. long
Mix
260 lb of countertop mix — six 50 lb bags with extra
Pigment
1.72 lb of Smokestack
Water
Six gallons, hand-mixed
Form
Melamine sheet, for an extra-smooth face
Finish
Penetrating sealer, polished, then a thin water-based matte polyurethane
Time
2 days and 6 hours
Pouring the vanity.The cast top before finishing.
The finished vanity.The surface up close with stone aggregate in the top layer.
“For sure, never underestimate that the volume of the pour brings a lot more complications. The larger the piece, the more unforgiving. Always remember time spent working out the bubbles is time saved and higher quality results.” — Gary Bottelberghe
Two more views of the finished concrete vanity.
The method, in order
1
Build the form — melamine gives the smoothest face
Add pigment to the dry mix and stir until the color is completely uniform — this is what prevents streaking
4
Add water slowly and mix; keep the water volume identical across batches
5
Pour, work the bubbles out, and add surface aggregate now if you want it
6
Cure, then demould carefully
7
Seal and polish
Polishing, or not
If you are polishing: apply a penetrating sealer with a pump sprayer — enough to keep the surface uniformly damp for 20 minutes, adding more only where it looks dry. No membrane should form. Squeegee off any excess so none pools, let it dry 24 hours, then polish from 400-grit upward. For maximum durability go to 1500–3000 grit.
If you are not polishing: seal with a polyurethane or epoxy countertop sealer instead.
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Before You Checkout
EasyTint™ and OxiGrip™ are not compatible when used together directly. For slip resistance, use EasyTint™ as the color layer and apply OxiGrip™ only with a clear solvent based sealer as the topcoat.
Before You Checkout
AcquaTint™ and OxiGrip™ are not compatible when used together directly. If you need added slip resistance, apply AcquaTint™ as your color layer first, then use OxiGrip™ in a clear topcoat with AcquaSeal™ or HydroCryl™.