Why choose the EverStain™ 3-Step System?
A complete acid-stain project in one kit.
- Complete kit: Acid-stain, sealer, degreaser, neutralizer, and application tools.
- Permanent color: Reacts with the concrete instead of sitting on top like paint. The color won’t peel or flake.
- Rich, intense color: Strong reaction with concrete minerals creates deeper color and natural variation.
- Less guesswork: Coordinated products from prep through sealing.
- Factory-direct guidance: Project guides and manufacturer support.
- Up to 200 sq. ft. coverage
Kit includes:
- - 1 Gal EverStain™ acid stain
- - 1 Gal Your selected sealer
- - ProClean Degreaser
- - Acid-stain neutralizer
- - 2 Application sprayers
- - Spiked shoes
- - Safety glasses
- - Cleaning cloth
EverStain™ 3-Step Complete Kit - 200 sq ft
EverStain™ 3-Step Complete Kit - 200 sq ft
Everything you need to acid stain 200 sq ft of concrete — Stain, sealer, neutralizer, degreaser, 2 sprayers, spiked shoes, safety glasses, and cleaning cloth in one kit.
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More Than 200 Sq ft?
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How much do you need?
- One kit covers about 200 sq ft at 2 coats.
- Bigger job? We’ll add matched Stain & Seal Bundles + degreaser automatically.
Dimensions of concrete to be stained:
Amount of coats:
Color & finish:
What you need to cover 0 sq ft:
| Product | Qty | Subtotal |
|---|---|---|
| Estimated total | — | |
Acid Stain Tutorials
Complete Concrete Acid Stain Kit — Stain, Neutralizer & Sealer for 200 sq ft
The EverStain™ 3-Step Acid Stain System is a complete concrete acid stain kit that includes the three essential products needed to acid stain concrete from start to finish: 1 gallon of EverStain Acid Stain in your color choice, 1 gallon of matched sealer, and 4 oz of ProClean™ Neutralizer concentrate. Together, these cover approximately 200 square feet of standard interior or exterior concrete.
This is the most popular way to buy EverStain. Acid staining concrete requires three chemically distinct products in matched quantities — and figuring out which sealer pairs with which stain, how much neutralizer you need, and what coverage to expect from each is a barrier that keeps a lot of first-time users from getting professional results. The 3-Step System eliminates the guesswork. Pick your color, place one order, and you have everything you need to acid stain a concrete floor, patio, or other 200 sq ft project.
How to Use the 3-Step Application System
Step 1: Prep
- Test your concrete. Sprinkle water on the surface. If it absorbs within seconds, you're ready to stain. If it beads up, you need to etch with CitrusEtch first (sold separately).
- Degrease the concrete with the included ProClean Degreaser. Mix per the instructions, scrub, and rinse thoroughly.
Step 2: Stain
- Apply EverStain Acid Stain with one of the included sprayers. Work it into the surface with a soft-bristle brush. Use the spiked shoes to move across the wet surface without leaving footprints. Allow the reaction to develop for 4–24 hours.
- Neutralize with ProClean Neutralizer. Apply, scrub gently, and rinse thoroughly until the rinse water runs clear.
- Allow to dry completely before sealing.
Step 3: Seal
- Seal with the included concrete sealer using the second sprayer. This is when the color pops.
- Optional: Finish with ProWax Polish for interior floors (sold separately).
Full step-by-step instructions are included with the kit. For more detail, see the Acid Stain How-To Guide.
| System Type | 3-step acid stain system: stain, neutralize, then seal. |
|---|---|
| Sealer Options | Choose between AcquaSeal™ & HydroCryl™ Water-based Acrylic Sealers or EasySeal™ Solvent-based Acrylic Sealer. |
| Acid Stain Reaction Time | Allow approximately 4–6 hours for the acid stain to react with the concrete before neutralizing. Reaction time may vary with temperature, porosity, and slab condition. |
| Coverage | Approximately 200 sq ft per gallon with two thin coats of sealer recommended. Coverage may vary depending on concrete porosity, texture, and surface preparation. |
| Application Tools | Includes 2 all-plastic pump sprayers for acid stain and sealer, plus spiked shoes, gloves, safety glasses, and cleaning cloth. |
| Use Location | Suitable for interior concrete floors and exterior concrete surfaces such as patios, driveways, and walkways. Interior applications should have proper ventilation. |
| Ideal Surfaces | Concrete floors, patios, driveways, walkways, and other properly prepared concrete surfaces. |
| Application Temperature | Best applied when surface and air temperatures are between 40°F–95°F. |
| Dry Time & Cleanup | Sealer dry times, recoat times, and cleanup vary depending on whether you select EasySeal™ solvent-based or AcquaSeal™ water-based sealer. |
| Important Notes | Sealer is required to protect the finished surface. Spiked shoes help prevent footprints while the stain is still reacting. |
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| What’s Included in the 3-Step Application System | ||
|---|---|---|
| Stain, Sealer & Surface Prep | ||
| Product | Quantity | What It’s For |
| EverStain™ Acid Stain | 1 gallon | Creates permanent, variegated color by reacting with the concrete. |
| Concrete Sealer EasySeal™ solvent-based or AcquaSeal™ water-based |
1 gallon | Locks in the finished color and protects the surface. |
| ProClean™ Neutralizer Concentrate | 4 oz | Stops the acid stain reaction after the color has developed. |
| ProClean™ Degreaser Concentrate | 4 oz | Helps clean and prep the concrete before staining. |
| Application Tools | ||
| Item | Quantity | What It’s For |
| Plastic Pump Sprayers | 2 | One for the acid stain and one for the sealer — do not use the same sprayer for both. |
| Spiked Shoes | 1 pair | Lets you walk on the slab during application without leaving footprints. |
| Cleaning Cloth | 1 | Useful for cleanup, wipe-ups, and small prep tasks during the project. |
| Safety Equipment | ||
| Item | Quantity | What It’s For |
| Safety Glasses | 1 pair | Helps protect your eyes when working with acid stain and sealer. |
| Gloves | 1 pair | Helps protect your hands during prep, staining, neutralizing, and sealing. |
Coverage: Approximately 200 square feet of standard interior or exterior concrete.
Why Two Sprayers? Why Spiked Shoes?
Two of the most common mistakes first-time acid stainers make are using the same sprayer for both stain and sealer, and walking on freshly stained concrete in regular shoes. Both can ruin the finish.
Two sprayers, one job each. Acid stain residue left in a sprayer can react with concrete sealer and cause cloudy, uneven coverage. Sealer residue left in a sprayer can interfere with the next acid stain application. The 3-Step Application System includes two dedicated sprayers — one for the stain and one for the sealer — so you do not have to worry about cross-contamination.
Spiked shoes help prevent footprints. Once acid stain is applied and developing on the surface, walking on it in regular shoes can leave visible footprints that do not blend out. Spiked shoes, sometimes called stain shoes or stilts, let you move across the slab without disturbing the reaction or leaving marks. The same idea applies during sealing — wet sealer needs to cure without being tracked through.
These are not just add-ons. They are part of what helps produce a clean, professional-looking result. Including them in the Application System is one of the main differences between this kit and the basic 3-Step System — and one of the reasons many first-time users choose this option.
Why Sealer Is Required for Acid-Stained Concrete
Acid stain creates permanent color through a chemical reaction, but until that surface is sealed, the color can look lighter and less defined than the finished result. Sealer is what brings out the depth of color. It enriches the tone, highlights the natural variegation, and reveals the marbled character created by the EverStain™ reaction.
Sealer also protects the concrete from water, stains, foot traffic, UV exposure, and everyday wear. Every EverStain™ System includes the right sealer for the job in the right quantity, so you can choose between EasySeal™ solvent-based or AcquaSeal™ water-based protection without having to piece the system together yourself.
What This System Does Not Include
- CitrusEtch™ for sealed concrete prep: If your concrete is currently sealed, painted, polished, or otherwise non-porous, you will need CitrusEtch™ to open the surface before staining. Sold separately.
- ProWax Polish™ for interior floor finishing: For interior floors with foot traffic, ProWax Polish™ adds a low-maintenance gloss or satin finish over the sealer. Optional, but highly recommended for interior installations.
- More than 200 square feet of coverage: For larger projects, see the EverStain™ 3-Step Professional System, which covers approximately 1,000 square feet.
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| EverStain™ Color | Minimum Reaction Time | Maximum Reaction Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Avocado | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Bluish green with brown accents. |
| Azure Blue | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Medium blue final color. |
| Black | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Leave up to 12 hours for the darkest blackish result. |
| Coffee Brown | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Develops into a medium to dark brown. |
| Cola | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Reddish brown with warm orange tones. |
| Desert Amber | 8 hours | 12 hours | Needs a longer minimum reaction time than most colors. |
| English Red | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Reddish brown final color. |
| Malayan Buff | 8 hours | 12 hours | Needs a longer minimum reaction time than most colors. |
| Seagrass | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Sea foam with dark brown accents. |
| Shifting Sand | 4–6 hours | 12 hours | Olive green with reddish brown accents. |
How to Apply EverStain™
Explore our full range of EverStain™ Acid Stain concrete colors and find the perfect tone for your project.
- Preparation
- Application
- Drying Times & Protection
- Maintenance & Safety
Frequently Asked Questions
I’ve just applied acid stain to my concrete and after it dried, it barely has any color. What happened?
I’ve just applied acid stain to my concrete and after it dried, it barely has any color. What happened?
This is one of the most common questions we receive, and we totally understand where you’re coming from! Not only have you put in the work to prepare for concrete stain, but you’ve also applied the acid stain, neutralized, and scrubbed the remaining residue. It looked great initially, but then you watched the color fade as the concrete dried. Not to worry; the color is still there, and you’ll see it return when you begin the sealing process. Concrete sealer causes the color to pop more intensely. Be mindful of a decision you’ll need to make between solvent-based or water-based sealers. While both are great options, the difference is that solvent-based sealers will “pop” color much more intensely than water-based sealers. Water-based sealers will tend to soften in color as they cure.
Why didn’t EverStain™ work on my concrete?
Why didn’t EverStain™ work on my concrete?
This can sometimes happen. Please take a look at the FAQ “How does EverStain™ work?”. It’s an important part of understanding why it maybe didn’t go as planned. Most concrete ready-mix plants use varied mix designs while “batching” concrete. Many have adopted the use of fly ash as a replacement for a percentage of Portland cement. Fly ash will not react with acid stain, and since it’s lighter than Portland when the surface is being finished or troweled, a higher percentage of the fly ash floats to the surface, diminishing the effects of EverStain™. This is not representative of the quality of acid stain but rather the proper quality of concrete for acid staining. If the fly ash dosage exceeds 10%, you may be having difficulty getting EverStain™ to work as intended. Consider aggressively sanding the surface to remove a micro-layer made of predominantly fly ash. This will help expose the richer mineral content and may potentially react more robustly with EverStain™.
How much surface preparation is required before applying EverStain™ Acid Stain?
How much surface preparation is required before applying EverStain™ Acid Stain?
Surface preparation is often the most critical factor in any successful decorative concrete project. The concrete surface MUST be free of cure and seal, sealer, paint, dirt, grime, and grease. Once the surface is nice and clean, make sure it has enough porosity for the stain to penetrate the surface. If the concrete is too smooth (slick) and the acid stain isn’t able to penetrate, you’ll get a diminished color return. Trust us - it’s totally worth it to put in the extra time to set yourself up for a successful and long-lasting project!
I purchased the amount of product your concrete stain calculator recommended based on my square footage, and still needed more. What happened?
I purchased the amount of product your concrete stain calculator recommended based on my square footage, and still needed more. What happened?
Depending on your concrete surface and chosen application methods, coverage rates can vary. We follow industry standards of approximately 200 square feet per gallon, which commonly applies to lower viscosity products like colorants and concrete sealers. First, it’s always good to double-check your calculation of square footage. From there, a few variables come into play. How porous, weathered, or worn is your concrete? How heavily are you applying the product? On smoother, less porous concrete, you may find you’re getting a bit more coverage than anticipated. For stamped, textured, or more weathered, porous concrete, you may get a bit less coverage. These variables aren’t calculation errors, but more of a common indefinite. When in doubt, follow the general construction rule of rounding up for your supply needs.
What happens if you stain concrete before it cures?
What happens if you stain concrete before it cures?
Any stain applied to concrete before it has fully cured for at least 28 days is likely to experience unintended color effects. Think about it - acid stain is a water-based liquid containing reactive minerals. When it seeps into the pores of the concrete, a chemical reaction occurs between the acid stain and the available lime on the surface. If the concrete hasn’t fully cured, the concrete will evaporate more water into the stain while it reacts - so the color will either look watered down or not take hold at all!
Do I have to let my concrete surface dry after cleaning, prior to applying acid stain?
Do I have to let my concrete surface dry after cleaning, prior to applying acid stain?
There’s no need to let it dry, as concrete can be damp before applying stain. However, you should not have any puddles of water present before staining, as the water will dilute the acid stain.
I have a new concrete/new pavers. I want to change the gray to match some existing concrete/pavers I have nearby. Can I use EverStain™ Acid Stain for this project?
I have a new concrete/new pavers. I want to change the gray to match some existing concrete/pavers I have nearby. Can I use EverStain™ Acid Stain for this project?
An acid stain trial kit is a great way to see if EverStain™ is right for your particular project.
Can you put acid stain over concrete sealer?
Can you put acid stain over concrete sealer?
No, the acid stain needs to be in direct contact with concrete without any sealers to prevent a reaction.
Can I put tinted sealer over acid stain to darken the color?
Can I put tinted sealer over acid stain to darken the color?
Yes, tinted sealer provides a translucent color of your choice that allows the undertones and variations to show through while subtly influencing the color in your desired direction.
Do I wait for my first coat of acid stain to dry before applying the second coat/color?
Do I wait for my first coat of acid stain to dry before applying the second coat/color?
It is not necessary to wait for the first coat to dry. However, if you are looking for a stark separation in color, particularly when using two colors, you might consider applying the second color after the initial color application has dried. Keep in mind as you plan your stain work, darker colors will override lighter colors.
Can I dilute the acid stain with water?
Can I dilute the acid stain with water?
Yes, EverStain™ may be diluted with water to achieve a lighter shade in color. We don’t recommend diluting our acid stain more than four-parts water to one-part stain without performing an initial dilution test.
